Residents of
Pennsylvania's snowiest city know how to make the most of winter
February 19, 2011|By Diane W. Stoneback, OF
THE MORNING CALL
Residents of Pennsylvania's snowiest city know how to have a ball.
Determined not to be trapped indoors by an average of nearly 90 inches
of snow per winter, they skim over the icy surface of Presque Isle Bay
on skis, using wind power harnessed by their kites. They strap on snow
shoes for night-time nature walks. They even equip their bikes with
studded snow tires and hit the road.
But visitors need not go to such extremes to discover that Erie isn't
dreary on even the darkest of winter days. You can stroll along the
snow-covered beaches of Presque Isle State Park and view extraordinary
ice dunes on the shore of Lake Erie or spend a peaceful morning
cross-country skiing on scenic trails.
You can follow in Mary Birdsong's tracks. An avid birdwatcher, she
ventures out in all kinds of weather to see the amazing assortment of
birds that winter in Erie. If you see ice fishermen dropping their lines
into Presque Isle Bay, you can follow their fresh footprints onto the
snow-covered ice. If you're lucky, you'll encounter someone like
octogenarian Bill Oshinsky who happily shares stories about his hobby as
he fishes for his dinner.
Follow the residents of the state's fourth-largest municipal area
(behind Philadelphia, Pittsburgh and the Lehigh Valley) indoors and
you'll discover wonderful ways to warm up after they've weathered the
Lake Effect snow that blankets the city almost every day.
After you've done some sledding in Erie's Frontier Park, try one of the
locals' favorite ways of thawing out — with a piping-hot cup of
specially-blended hot chocolate topped by a snow drift of whipped cream
at Romolo Chocolates' Cocoa Cafe. Another of the locals' favorite places
for defrosting is the old-fashioned Erie Bookstore. Step inside and you
can browse collector's editions or new books in a fireside rocking
chair, with periodic pauses to pet Diggory, the shop's resident kitty.
Or take a short drive from Erie toward the touristy town of North East
in Lake Erie Wine Country. When you're sniffing and sipping your way
through the area's winery tasting rooms, don't miss a special treat at
Mazza Vineyards — sampling its grand ice wine.
No matter how bad the weather is, Erie's assortment of activities will
keep your mind from freezing. In fact, you'll have a tough time plowing
through all it offers in a weekend or even a long weekend. Spend four or
five days, if you can, before drifting home again.
The six-hour (without stops) drive to Erie from the Allentown area
crosses 375 miles of Pennsylvania and gives you a new appreciation for
the state's expansiveness. Add in delays for traffic problems on Route
80 and bad weather on Route 79 and you'll understand the joy I felt when
I spotted the lights of the Bicentennial Tower on Erie's waterfront.
Nevertheless, I'd make the trip again. As someone who still loves snow,
despite the problems associated with the rugged winter we've been having
in the Lehigh Valley, I give Erie a four-snowman rating.
A favorite experience was watching kite skiers Lee Sedgwick and Tim
Polaski doing mid-air jumps, spins and turns on Presque Isle Bay at
speeds approaching 50 miles per hour. I was sorry I didn't get to see
ice boaters from Erie Yacht Club flying along at even higher speeds.
"It's much easier to go kite skiing here. Ice boating requires nearly
glass-smooth ice, while ice conditions for kite skiing don't need to be
so perfect," says Polaski, who does both whenever he has the
opportunity. "Snow can cover the ice completely or there can be patches
of snow and ice or even snow drifts on the ice. None of that stops us."
The pair present a wintry ballet in 10-degree weather, traveling side by
side and weaving in and out while maneuvering their colorful kites for
speed. Later, Sedgwick offers advice for would-be kite skiers. "Don't
even think about trying this until you know how to fly and control these
kites by taking lessons here in the summertime. What you don't know
could cause serious injuries or even kill you." |